The Camino Portugués

Exercise caution passing through San Caetano as the road is quite narrow and the traffic is quite fierce. At the end of town turn right off the road. Soon you will be along the railway once more which you will follow along for several kilometers. 

Turn left at the fork in the road, past the park, and onto a country lane.

The turn off for the Portela/Barro albergue is along this stretch, and it takes you uphill to the right.

Before arriving at Briallos, the camino approaches the N550 once more. At this point, there are signs for the Natural Park of the Rio Barosa, and the waterfalls. The waterfalls are 500m down the road directly opposite this point and are a worthwhile detour. Picnic areas and a bar and bathroom are at the base of the falls.

On the way out of town, it is once more along the N550 (which frankly will be the case frequently between here and Santiago). Leave it to your right at the first bend in the road. 

The camino leaves town along the road but quickly picks up a track as it descends through the hamlet of Fragmoreira.  It emerges on a roundabout at the divided highway you have crossed over a few times. Keep to the left as you approach Poio.

The camino descends from the Monastery and turns right at the bottom of the hill. Mind the traffic here, there are no barriers and not too many arrows. Follow the road to the first crosswalk and turn left to pick up a smaller country road.

Here there is one tricky turn. Shortly after crossing the road keep an eye open for a narrow path that turns upward on your left-hand side, it is right before a small B&B called A Marchanta. Follow it upward, then turn right, and then left at the fork onto a small dirt track.

This track leads you to the waterfront and a large park which plays host to all manner of celebrations, do not be surprised to find it full of teenagers hungover from a late night of partying or packed full with caravans. The arrows are not bountiful here but keep the water to your left and cross to the far end of the park where a paved road takes you uphill to join the main road.

This road is very busy and parked cars make for plenty of blind spots. Keep to the left as best you can and soon you will arrive at Combarro.

The Variante Espiritual crosses the road and immediately begins its ascent of the Monte Redondo. The climb varies in intensity from extremely steep to gently rolling and back again. Go gently.

From the mirador the camino levels out a bit and follows along a mountain track. It eventually joins a paved road but only for 250m when it crosses the road and begins the descent into Armenteira.

From Armenteira the camino joins a popular (among locals) trail known as the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua. It follows along a creek, with trails on both sides, as it descends to sea level. Along the way, it passes several dozen abandoned water mills. Note that although you can safely and easily follow both sides of the river, it is the right-hand side that keeps you closer to the mills and the water.

The riverside walk is interrupted by a large highway and associated roundabouts, but no sooner than you pass them do you return to the trail.

As you approach Puente Arnelas you need to follow the arrows that lead you up a steel and wood walkway under the belly of the bridge. At the top, turn right to get up to the road level and follow it into the small village. A short ways on the camino joins the broad Río Umia.

The camino ahead includes a small climb up through the town of Gombra. It also follows the road for a short stretch before turning left into the small village of Mouzas. There are a few more hamlets along this stretch before the camino arrives at a large crossing of the  PO-549. Here there is a pair of bars, including the happy for hamburgers Mississippi Bar.

Cross the road towards Cores.

Just beyond Cores the camino arrives at last to the sea, and the last 3km are along sandy paths with beaches on your left and beach bars on your right. The camino keeps close to the water and arrives at Vilanova by way of a large bridge.

THE BOAT. Everything you need to know about the boat to Pontecesures is impossible to print here. The schedule varies with the tide, the number of passengers, and the whims of the captain and the hospitalero at the albergue (he who makes the arrangements). The matter is complicated by the fact that the same captain helms two boats of different sizes and capabilities and there is a daily calculation to maximize profit. Unfortunately, this means that there is little that you can do to plan it days in advance, and more or less need to turn up at the albergue and arrange things with the hospitalero.

THE ROAD. The alternative to the boat is a predominantly roadside walk along a path that roughly mirrors the coastline but doesn’t provide for much contact with it. The arrows are lacking in certain areas and the accommodation along this stretch should only be relied upon during peak Summer months and with a reservation. 

The arrows go under the road and over the bridge and across the Río Sar to Aduana. Here it runs all the way into Padrón. 

To get there simply follow the red arrows marked Herbón. This detour if for anyone wishing to spend the night in the Albergue at the Monastery of Herbón (recommended). From Pontecesures it is 2.7km, with an additional 3km the following morning to bring you to Padrón. In all this detour adds 3.1km to the official route.

Take a look at the elevation profile for an idea of what these last 24km will be like, many pilgrims underestimate the elevation changes which increase as you near Santiago.

Pass through Pazos, Rueiro, Tarrio and Vilar (albergue); none with services.