Arzúa

Camino Frances

Camino del Norte

Camino Primitivo

To end of camino
38.5
Altitude
385

Ribadiso da Carretera

2.30

Arzúa

2.30

Pregontoño

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes

Arzúa is a pleasant town with almost enough beds for pilgrims. If you find everything to be full and don’t feel like splurging on one of the many hotels in the area, the Polideportivo (sports hall) is often used to house pilgrims. Between here and O Pedrouzo lie a string of very small Galician hamlets of little note. The locals in these parts enjoy telling you, without the slightest tone of irony or sarcasm, that ‘no hay vacas in Galicia’ (there are no cows in Galicia). Hold that thought in your head while you slosh through a soggy trail on an otherwise sunny day.

Fiesta

Famous for its cheese, Arzúa hosts an annual (and three day long) Festival of Cheese in March. They have been doing so for 40 years. Apart from this and several other secular celbrations, Arzúa celebrates Corpus Christi, as well as Nuestra Señora del Carmen, who is celebrated on the 16th of July.

History

Tetilla Cheese: You might have seen this curiously shaped cheese in the shop windows. If you made a connection between the name and the shape you are not mistaken. It was shaped this way by cheese makers in protest to the bishop of Santiago. At the time the Portico de la Gloria (Master Mateo’s famous sculptures at the Cathedrals main entrance) was being finished and the bishop took issue with the odd smile on the prophet Daniels’ face. The clever bishop followed his gaze across the doorway and found that Queen Esther’s bosom was augmented by a cheeky sculptor. Daniel kept his smile, Esther had a reduction, and we got boob-shaped-protest-cheese.

The Road

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few steep sections but none of any considerable length.

City Map

Comments

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Horrible experience. Dirty, moldy rooms, moldy bathroom, mold everywhere. Waited 30 minutes after walking 18 miles for a man to come although online said a receptionist would be present from 1-7pm. Dirty couches in common area. No elevator and rooms are on 4th floor.

Not recommended for the amount of money I paid for this. If it was less than 25 euros I would stay here but not for 65. Bad bad bad

All Caminos App User (not verified)

A little off the Camino, but has huge portions and filled with locals, really enjoyed churrasco de terneira here, highly recommend.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

This lovely, new pension is just a block off The Camino and a block from the Municipal albergue and is a great choice for an overnight stay. The hosts are very nice and the rooms are clean and modern (this was my second stay there). Excellent breakfast available, too. Easy walk to cafes, supermarket, and restaurants. Highly recommended.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

I had been fairly successful using Trip Advisor to select restaurants for a late lunch / early dinner along the Camino until Arzua. The hours shown in Trip Advisor for the first two restaurants we tried were wrong: both closed. Third restaurant was fully reserved. We ended up going to a supermarket and getting food there.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

We found one place available for lunch on a Tuesday, Casa de Chelo. It’s market day so perhaps that’s the primary source of food for the day? Recommend booking ahead here if you can or plan on going to the market.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Everything said about this place so far is true. It’s clean, comfortable bed, quiet, away from the city, next door to a hotel restaurant. The owner is an amazing man, he carried my bags, hung my wet jackets to dry, he really cared I get a good experience.
This place doesn’t have a Camino alberque vibe but I’d still give it a 5 star rating

All Caminos App User (not verified)

The church off the main square appears closed. No signs for Mass, but around 6:15 pm the doors open for Mass at 7 pm. Guitar-playing nun, the priest spoke English and inquired as to nationalities represented. Lovely welcome! Sellos after Mass.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

What a beautiful place to stay! Clean, modern and bright rooms. Get a room facing the back for a gorgeous view of the countryside. It is @ 1 km prior to the city of Arzua and worth the stay. Highly recommended.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Decided to spend the night in Arzua after a hard day walking in the rain. Stayed at Penson Arcana which is just off the main street. It was a nice room where I was met by a sound gentleman on reception.. He helped me hang up all my wet clothes and even sorted my sodden boots in his drying room. The room was nice warm and spacious as was the shower. All for 35 euro it was great value. Niall

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Luis the owner is the most warm and welcoming person. He has built a beautiful pensión with very nice rooms. They were the best beds we slept in on the Camino and the shower got very hot and had good water pressure. We woke up refreshed and rested and came out for breakfast and got to know Luis. He’s a wonderful person and really cares about his guests. He’s one of the angels of the Camino. We will stay here again on our next Camino!