The Vía de la Plata

CAMINO MARKERS: Be aware that there is no single official designation of the camino trail. Between Sevilla and Santiago, the camino is maintained by a number of local and regional governments, as well as by several ‘Amigo’ associations. Along the way, you will find yellow arrows, ceramic shell tiles (whose orientation may or may not be significant), bronze plaques embedded in the sidewalk, post-mounted street signs, striped trail markings, and privately made and installed signs. Seldom though will you find more than two of these in any given area and before long you will develop a sense of what to look for. When you cross from region to region, or when you enter a large city, be on the lookout for something new.

The markings of the camino in Andalucia come in the form of hand-painted yellow arrows, blue and yellow stickers, and ceramic tiles bearing a shell. In the case of the shell, the tile is oriented in such a way that you should walk in the direction of the ‘hinge’, which is to say towards the point where all of the lines converge. Note that this is not always the case in other parts of Spain, but the Amigos in Sevilla have done a good job of installing them as such. The camino begins at the Cathedral and makes its way to the Río Guadalquivir to cross at the Puente de Isabel II. This is the first bridge north of the Plaza de Toros. Once over the bridge, you have entered the barrio of Triana.

Once over the bridge, the camino turns right onto Calle San Jorge, and then right again onto the Calle Antillano Campos, followed by a left onto Calle Castilla which curves gently to the left. The arrows will direct you across a small paved square and up a broad set of stairs. Once at the top you will be facing a very large roundabout. Cross twice, keeping to the right both times (placing you on the diagonally opposite corner).

From here walk north (NOT over the busy bridge) along the road with a shabby looking parking lot on your left. You will soon cross part of that parking lot just before crossing the Río Guadalquivir (1.8km) for a second time. The way ahead is across the bridge, which is divided between a bicycle and pedestrian lane and a vehicular lane (traffic is oncoming but motorcycles tend to take a few liberties with the law, take note). Once over the bridge the camino splits into two routes of equal length:

1. THE RIVER ROUTE: This route has a reputation for being a bit unsavory, and it certainly does feel run down at the onset. Piles of windswept trash and the occasional squatter hut don’t lend it much credibility but it really is the more scenic of the two routes. That said, if you are uncertain it would not be the worst idea to walk with another pilgrim. During times of heavy rain, this route may be impassible. To follow the river route, turn right after crossing the bridge. The way is well marked and you will bypass nearly all of the industrial zone. CAUTION: When the camino returns to the paved road it does so at a roundabout which serves as a junction for the N-630 and there is a spray-painted yellow arrow indicating that you should turn right to go up the on-ramp. This is NOT the case, keep walking straight and under the highway towards the main road through Santiponce.

2. THE ROAD ROUTE (via Camas): This route travels through well-populated areas as well as through a long industrial estate and might be your only option following heavy rains. To follow this route keep on straight after the bridge. The arrows along the way are extremely faded but there are a few ceramic shells to keep you in the right direction. It is fairly straightforward: Keep on straight through a residential area full of bars and shops and play areas for children. Where this road ends turn right onto Calle José Payán (a narrow road). Follow it to the first large intersection, which is a roundabout known as Plaza Constitución and which is identifiable for the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia. From the roundabout keep to the left (passing the church with it on your right) and continue all the way to a large roundabout. NOTE: This is a large roundabout and you have to get to the other side without the benefit of any protection rails, so be careful and go slow. Once on the other side, the camino follows a straight path through an industrial estate (though along a dedicated bike & hike lane). At the far end of the estate, it rejoins the river route and proceeds into Santiponce.

This route travels through well-populated areas as well as through a long industrial estate and might be your only option following heavy rains. To follow this route keep on straight after the bridge. The arrows along the way are extremely faded but there are a few ceramic shells to keep you in the right direction. It is fairly straightforward: Keep on straight through a residential area full of bars and shops and play areas for children. Where this road ends turn right onto Calle José Payán (a narrow road). Follow it to the first large intersection, which is a roundabout known as Plaza Constitución and which is identifiable for the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia. From the roundabout keep to the left (passing the church with it on your right) and continue all the way to a large roundabout.
 

NOTE: This is a large roundabout and you have to get to the other side without the benefit of any protection rails, so be careful and go slow. Once on the other side, the camino follows a straight path through an industrial estate (though along a dedicated bike & hike lane). At the far end of the estate, it rejoins the river route and proceeds into Santiponce.

The camino leaves Santiponce along the same road that it came in on. Shortly after passing the archaeological site of Itálica it once again does a little dance around the highway on-ramps. Here, keep on this road to pass under the highway. Immediately after the last ramp (the northbound one), the camino splits but the split is not really marked.

The official route, at times flooded, leaves the road to follow a path on your left. This is the preferred route when it is passable and it is a straight path towards Guillena.

The alternate route adds about 5km to the camino but may be the only option after heavy rains. The start of it is not marked and you need only to continue along the road where the official route leaves it. Keep to the left side of the road and mind the traffic. The camino gets to the edge of a large town called La Algaba but doesn’t actually enter it. Instead, it skirts around the town to the left and you soon have the option to walk along a dirt path adjacent to the road.... or along the road if needed. Keep an eye open for the signs, and arrows, which will eventually lead you away from the road (left) along a dirt road. This path is well marked and used by service trucks for the local industry. It passes through citrus groves and the occasional cotton field before rejoining a different road to enter the village of Torre de la Reina.