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Wise Pilgrim APPCistierna is where the Olvidado and the Vadiniense caminos cross. It's a former mining town that's seen better days but the people are wonderfully welcoming. The albergue is adequate, and the Hostal Moderno is a basic hotel with excellent staff — don't miss their restaurant's menu del dia. There's a park and playground up the hill beyond the albergue where locals gather in the afternoons.
The town has supermarkets, cafes along the main street, and all basic services. This is the first ATM since Guardo, so stock up on cash.
Two different routes lead from Cistierna. The longer route goes uphill through San Pedro de Foncollada and is reportedly very pretty with romanesque churches. Both routes meet in La Ercina, about 11 km from Cistierna.
Even the shorter "old route" has a nice start crossing the Rio Esla. The Vadiniense/Olvidado split is well marked at the bridge. This is a mostly flat transitional day as you move from the mountains behind Cistierna to those behind Bonar.
To break the stage: La Ercina has an albergue (tel. +34 987 712 051 / +34 648 032 831) at 11 km. Hotel Rural Monasterio de Ara-Mada in Santa Colomba de las Arrimadas (slightly off-route, 15-minute walk from La Devesa) is another option at about 22 km — the owners actively promote the Olvidado.
