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Wise Pilgrim APPBonar is where the camino splits into two major variants: a mountain route through Vegacervera (typically three stages to La Magdalena) and a flatter route through La Robla (two stages to La Magdalena). Both routes rejoin in La Magdalena.
Pension Nisi has rooms on the top floor. Below, the owner provides rooms and care to elderly people without resources, funding the operation through the pension and restaurant. She's a remarkable woman constantly on the go.
Bonar has all services — supermarkets, cafes, restaurants, and a pharmacy.
The mountain route from Bonar to Vegacervera (27 km) is a five-star day. The walk starts off-road and climbs through pretty countryside to La Mata de la Berbula, where there's a cafe. From La Mata to the viewpoint is only 6 km, but it's a steep 300 m ascent — the view from the top, spreading across valleys and mountain peaks, is spectacular and worth soaking in.
For shorter options: Ranedo de Curueno (8 km from Bonar) has Hotel Rural El Canto de Gallo. Valdepiélago (9 km) has several casas rurales. Or take a taxi to La Mata de la Berbula and walk the spectacular 12 km from there.
The flat route to La Robla (33 km) avoids the mountains. Shorter stops: La Vecilla (9.5 km, Hostal Las Hoces), Aviados (14 km, Albergue Fuente de Oso, tel. +34 666 605 835 — reserve in advance), Robles de la Valcueva (20 km, Hotel Rural el Arriero), Candanedo de Fenar (25 km, Hostal el Valle).
