Bilbao is the starting point for the Camino Olvidado. Once an industrial city best avoided, it reinvented itself spectacularly — the Guggenheim Museum, designed by Frank Gehry and opened in 1997, was the catalyst, but the transformation runs deeper than one building. The casco historico (old town) is lively, walkable, and packed with pintxos bars that are among the best in Spain.
The Museo de Bellas Artes, near the Guggenheim, is worth a visit if contemporary art isn't your thing — it spans everything from medieval to modern. The cathedral in the old town and the gracious modernist neighborhoods along the Gran Via are also worth exploring.
Pension de la Fuente and Iturrienea Ostatua are both well-located options in the old town — family-run, characterful buildings with creaky wood floors and proper metal keys. Bilbao has accommodation at every level.
The camino departs from the old town along the river, passing the Guggenheim and splitting from the Camino del Norte at the Puente del Diablo.
Bilbao's main festival is the Semana Grande (Aste Nagusia in Basque), celebrating the Assumption of Mary on August 15. The nine-day celebration kicks off the following Saturday with concerts, fireworks, and general revelry throughout the old town.
Though settled by the Romans, modern Bilbao didn't take root until the 14th century. Iron ore deposits in the surrounding mountains drove rapid industrialization, making it unique in Spain. Globalization hit the economy hard in the 1980s, but the city reinvented itself through services, culture, and tourism — the Guggenheim being the most visible symbol of that transformation.
The first day is almost entirely on pavement, mostly on bidegorris (Basque bike/walking paths). It's flat and pleasant — parks, old stone houses with flower boxes, and no shortage of cafes. The pavement continues essentially all the way to Balmaseda (37 km from Bilbao), so plan your stopping point accordingly.
For a shorter first day, Alonsotegi is 11 km out, with the Agroturismo Ordaola. Guenes at 25 km is the standard stop. Those wanting a longer day can push on to Balmaseda at 37 km.