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Wise Pilgrim APPÉntoma is a pretty hamlet with a striking metal sculpture made from agricultural hoes bidding pilgrims a Buen Camino. There's a beautiful old bridge, perfect for a rest stop. Bar Martillo has a terrace (reportedly opens at noon, closed Mondays).
The parish records of Éntoma contain a poignant entry: on May 21, 1806, a woman of humble origin from Santa Marina del Rey in León province gave birth here. She was baptized in the local church and described as a pilgrim on her way home from Santiago.
Leaving the hamlet, the camino takes you up through a forest of pine, chestnut, and cherry trees, with some vineyards. You'll arrive on O Barco's outskirts and back on the OU-0801. It's at least half an hour into the center, with development stretched along the highway.
Watch for two blue Camino signs and a mojón indicating a narrow tunnel to your left, under the train tracks. After the tunnel, enter the slate mill and turn right on a gravel track. O Barco is near — up a sharp climb and over another train tunnel.
