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Wise Pilgrim APPBuiza is your last stop before the serious mountain section begins. The albergue occupies an old school building at the entrance to town, with a fountain in front of it. If you plan to stay, bring food — the only bar in town keeps irregular hours and may well be closed when you arrive.
This is a good place to take stock. From here, the camino climbs to the Alto de San Antón and into genuinely mountainous terrain. Make sure your water bottles are full, your phone is charged, and you know what lies ahead. The next reliable services are in Poladura de la Tercia, and the stretch between there and Puerto de Pajares is the most demanding section of the entire route.
Buiza sits at the threshold between the Leonese lowlands and the Cantabrian mountain passes. For centuries, this was the last settlement where travelers, merchants, and pilgrims could prepare before crossing the mountains into Asturias. The surrounding landscape shows evidence of both mining activity and traditional mountain pastoralism.
From Buiza the camino ascends to the Alto de San Antón, passing the Forcadas de San Antón — jagged rock formations whose name translates to "pitchfork," an aptly descriptive word. It's about 2.5 km up to the pitchfork. The descent on the far side is more pleasant, passing through a pine forest.
Before the alto, you'll see a yellow arrow pointing along a non-existent path along the stream. Ignore it. A steel arrow indicating "Mieres" is the one you want to follow.
At the end of the pine forest, the camino splits and the marking isn't obvious if you've been lost in thought. On your left is a small concrete block building for pumping water. The official camino turns left here and off the road.
If you miss this turn and follow the road, you'll end up heading toward Rodiezmo. Along that wrong path you'll reach the Cruz de la Salve, where the camino turns sharply left. Miss that turn too and you'll end up in Rodiezmo, which means either following the busy national road back or retracing your steps.
