Zamora is the Romanesque capital of Europe, and the claim is not hyperbole. There are 14 Romanesque churches in the old town alone, and countless more in the surrounding region. If Romanesque architecture interests you, this is one of the most important concentrations anywhere.
Start with the Catedral de San Salvador, built in just 23 years in the 12th century — an astonishingly fast construction that gives it a rare stylistic unity. The Byzantine-influenced dome, covered in fish-scale stone tiles, is unique in Spain. The castle next door is a few centuries older and has fine views over the Duero.
Three museums merit a visit: the Museo Etnográfico de Castilla y León, the Museo Catedralicio de Zamora, and the Museo de Semana Santa Zamora — the last being the best substitute for experiencing the city's famous Easter processions in person.
In the evening, cross the bridge and follow the road to the Playa de los Pelambres — a riverside beach with views back to the cathedral. Watch the sunset from there. When you're ready, cross back via the Puente de los Poetas and walk past the Iglesia de Santiago Caballero — the oldest and smallest of the Romanesque churches. At night it's illuminated, and it makes for a peaceful end to the day.
Zamora has all services — restaurants, accommodation, supermarkets, and railway connections.
There is a separate set of arrows in Zamora which direct the way along the Camino Portugués de la Plata, a route which turns westward into Portugal. Don't confuse these with the Levante arrows.
Semana Santa in Zamora is among the most solemn and atmospheric in Spain. The processions, carrying elaborate pasos (floats with sculpted scenes), wind through the narrow streets of the old town in near-silence. The Museo de Semana Santa displays the pasos year-round.
Zamora's strategic position on the Duero made it one of the most contested cities in medieval Spain. The famous siege of 1072, during which King Sancho II was assassinated outside the walls (at the Portillo de la Traición — the "Door of Treachery"), is one of the defining episodes of Castilian history. The city's saying "Zamora no se ganó en una hora" — "Zamora wasn't won in an hour" — entered the language as a proverb about patience. The Romanesque churches date from the 12th and 13th centuries, when the city flourished as a frontier stronghold.
The camino through the old town crosses the Plaza Mayor onto Calle de las Costanillas, which it follows downhill to the first roundabout. Cross directly over and continue along this road as it passes through the next intersection, passing the Iglesia de San Lázaro. Shortly after, the road splits and the camino veers to the left. This way is well marked with signs on posts, though you may see conflicting arrows for other routes.
