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Wise Pilgrim APPRodeiro is a small town with basic services. Cross the river and you'll emerge in the square with the Casa do Concello (town hall — sello available, but only open till 2 pm). The camino leaves to the right of the town hall, not up the hill through the center. Look for the first arrows near the monument to the wheel in the roundabout.
The Romanesque church dates to the 12th century. Bar Desito is recommended for its tortilla española.
There are no services on the camino between here and Lalín. Carry plenty of water and food. Some pilgrims stay on the highway, which has a few bars and is a few kilometers shorter — it's not pretty but safe, as you'll always be on an access road. The camino, however, follows beautiful back roads through the Galician heartland with several hamlets but no services except the occasional fountain.
Leave Rodeiro on the PO-5330 heading west for about 2 km. A mojón stands across from the COGAL rabbit-processing factory, directing you right onto a paved road toward Puente Limpio. It soon becomes a dirt path and meanders over a wide valley with stone quarries, trout-fishing streams, and sunken lanes that sometimes turn to mud.
Mojones direct you from Penerbosa to Puza to A Penela — notable for an enormous granite monument a local farmer dedicated to former King Juan Carlos. From A Penela, continue to A Eirexe, where the camino crosses a 12th-century bridge beneath a large strip mine.
A long stretch on a dirt road follows, through agricultural fields and forest. At approximately 19 km from Rodeiro, the camino enters Palmaz and takes you onto the PO-933 into Lalín de Arriba. The arrows lead past a church dating from the 10th century (the date 980 is carved into a stone window sill). The keeper of the keys lives nearby and is happy to open it if you can find her. From there, arrows continue into Lalín.
