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Wise Pilgrim APPPonferrada is the capital of El Bierzo and the starting point of the Camino de Invierno. Most pilgrims arrive here via the Camino Francés, turning south where the Francés continues west to Villafranca del Bierzo and O Cebreiro.
The Castillo de los Templarios is the main attraction — a massive Templar fortress overlooking the Río Sil that's one of the best-preserved in Spain. The castle was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century to protect pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Inside, a modern museum traces the Templar order and the castle's history.
The old town below the castle has the Basílica de la Encina (housing the patron virgin of El Bierzo), a clock tower, and a pleasant Plaza Mayor with arcaded buildings. The Museo de la Radio and the Museo del Bierzo are worth a visit if you have time.
Ponferrada is also the gateway to the Bierzo wine region. Wines made from the Mencía grape — the local red variety — are among the most exciting in Spain, and they're poured at bargain prices in every bar in town.
The city has all services — accommodation at every level, restaurants, supermarkets, pharmacy, train and bus station.
Ponferrada takes its name from an iron-reinforced bridge (pons ferrata) built in the 11th century to help pilgrims cross the Río Sil. The Templars established themselves here in 1178 and built the castle that dominates the city. The order's suppression in 1312 led to the castle passing through various noble hands. El Bierzo's mining heritage stretches back to Roman times — the massive gold mining operation at nearby Las Médulas was the largest in the ancient world.
Leave Ponferrada heading south, following the Invierno waymarks. The first stretch passes through Toral de Merayo, about 3 km away. Bars and services on the Invierno often have irregular opening hours, particularly on weekends — don't rely on them being open.
