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Wise Pilgrim APPCastrojeriz is deceptively long — the camino follows the Calle Oriente through a town that seems to go on forever. Don't rush it. Three churches, a ruined castle, and a tunnel system connecting the cellars beneath the main street all reward a slower pace.
The Colegiata de Santa María del Manzano has a 13th-century Black Madonna. The Iglesia de Santo Domingo houses a tapestry museum. The Iglesia de San Juan, at the far end, has a beautiful cloister. All three are worth seeing.
The castle ruins on the hilltop above town provide the best view of the meseta you'll get from any direction — the climb is short but steep. From the top you can see the route ahead stretching west toward the Alto de Mostelares and, on a clear day, well into Palencia.
Several albergues, bars, and restaurants line the main street. A couple of small shops handle provisions. The town has more character than its size suggests — the length of the Calle Oriente and the quality of its buildings speak to medieval prosperity that the surrounding farmland no longer supports.
San Juan is celebrated on June 24. Santa Catalina on November 25-26.
Beneath the main street runs a tunnel system connecting the cellars of the houses on both sides. It was used for storage and, in times of trouble, as an escape route. The castle above dates to the Visigothic period and was rebuilt repeatedly by Moorish and Christian rulers. The town received its charter in the 10th century.
The road ahead climbs to the Alto de Mostelares — the highest point on the meseta section. There's little shade between here and the crossing into Palencia.
