The stage from Puente Almuhey to Cistierna (21 km) is one of the best days on the entire Olvidado. One pilgrim summed it up: "If I wanted to show someone the essence of a camino, I would take them on this stage." It has gentle strolls through pastures with cowbells, forests, good tracks, panoramic views, and romanesque churches.
Don't miss the mermaids carved on the wall of the Romanesque church in San Martin de Valdetuéjar — legend says peregrinas seduced the monks, so the abbot turned them into mermaids.
The 17th-century Sanctuary of Our Lady of La Velilla has a Santiago Matamoros on one end. After the sanctuary, a beautiful ascent begins through wild mountain country with Leon's peaks in your sights. The only way to break up the day would be a stop near the Velilla sanctuary at Hotel la Velilla in Mata de Monteagudo, if it's still operating.