The same great content and more in your pocket, the most up-to-date guidebook to the Camino Francés available.
Wise Pilgrim APPValcarlos (Luzaide in Basque) is the main town on the valley route, sitting in a deep green gorge along the Nive de Arnéguy. It's a quiet, slightly faded border town with the essentials: a couple of bars, a small shop, a pharmacy, and a few accommodation options including the Albergue Municipal and several casas rurales.
The modern church is often locked. Most services are along the main road — if you've entered from the lower valley path, you may need to walk a short distance back toward Arnéguy to reach them.
This is where Charlemagne's rearguard was ambushed by Basque forces in 778, the historical event behind the Song of Roland. The narrow valley makes the tactical logic of the ambush immediately obvious.
Easter Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección) is celebrated with traditional Basque dancing and singing and draws a considerable crowd.
Leave town along the main road, eventually branching left onto a smaller road. Gañecoleta is less than 1 km from this junction. From there the serious climbing begins.
