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Wise Pilgrim APPSarria is the most popular starting point on the Camino Francés after Saint Jean Pied de Port, for one simple reason: it's just over 100 km from Santiago, the minimum distance required to receive a Compostela. The result is a dramatic change in atmosphere — from Sarria onward, the camino fills with pilgrims who are walking the last section, and the trail becomes significantly busier.
The town itself is more appealing than its reputation for crowding suggests. The old quarter climbs a hillside above the Río Sarria, with the ruined castle at the top providing views over the surrounding countryside. The Monasterio de la Magdalena, run by the Mercedarian order, operates a large albergue and has a pleasant cloister. The Iglesia de El Salvador has a Romanesque tympanum.
The main street — the Rúa Maior — is lined with bars, restaurants, and equipment shops (useful for replacing worn-out gear for the final push). A supermarket, pharmacy, and all services are available. Multiple albergues and hotels serve the large pilgrim population.
The Pilgrim Office issues credenciales and stamps. If you're starting in Sarria, pick up your credencial here and get your first sello. You'll need at least two stamps per day from Sarria to Santiago to qualify for the Compostela.
Getting to Sarria: RENFE trains from Madrid and bus services from Lugo and other Galician cities.
Along the way between Sarria and Portomarin it is common to find beggars and buskers and the occasional scam artist soliciting your support and money and signature. Do your best to avoid becoming ensnared, the best method is to keep on walking. Also, you are advised to get your credential stamped at least twice a day between here and Santiago.
Sarria has served as a pilgrim town since the earliest days of the Camino. Alfonso IX of León, who was himself making a pilgrimage to Santiago, died here in 1230 — a fact commemorated in the town. The castle ruins and medieval bridge speak to the town's historical importance as a waypoint on the pilgrim road.
The camino exits town along the Rúa Maior in the old town and passes the Convento de la Magdalena. Take note that the camino actually turns left BEFORE arriving at the convent. It goes steeply downhill to the road, turns right, and soon crosses the río Celeiro on the Ponte Áspera. It follows along the river, and in the shadow of a super bridge before crossing the train tracks. The first climb of the day (excluding the stairs in Sarria) is ahead and passes through an ancient forest full of gnarly oaks and chestnut trees.
