The same great content and more in your pocket, the most up-to-date guidebook to the Camino de Invierno available.
Wise Pilgrim APPRabanal del Camino is the traditional last stop before the climb over the Cruz de Ferro and the descent into the Bierzo. It's a stone village at 1,150 m with a Templar past and a contemplative present.
The Iglesia de la Asunción hosts Vespers and Compline services led by the Benedictine monks from the nearby monastery, which was restored by the German Benedictine community. The singing is plainchant in the stone church, and many pilgrims plan their day around attending.
The Refugio Gaucelmo, restored and managed by the British Confraternity of Saint James, was one of the first volunteer-run albergues on the Francés and set a standard that others followed. The confraternity has since handed over operations, but the albergue retains its reputation.
Several other albergues, bars, and a small shop serve the village. Stock up here — the next services are limited until Molinaseca on the far side of the mountain.
Rabanal was a Templar commandery in the 12th century, positioned to guard the mountain crossing. The Templar presence is reflected in the village's layout and the solidity of its buildings. After the Templar dissolution, the village declined slowly until the pilgrim revival of the late 20th century brought restoration and new life.
From Rabanal the camino climbs steadily through heath and scrubland toward Foncebadón and the Cruz de Ferro. The ascent is gradual but persistent, gaining about 350 m over 6 km. The landscape becomes increasingly wild as you climb above the tree line.
