Chantada's arcaded streets are lined with elegant portals and mansions from the 15th and 16th centuries. It has all basic services and is the natural stopping point between Monforte and Lalín.
When you cross the bridge into town, Piolindo is the first bar on the right — good food, and the manager Rachel is extremely helpful with directions and accommodation. Bar do Río is next, on the left, with a nice terrace overlooking the river. Pulpería Os Pendellos (Rúa de Benigno Ledo 13) is fantastic for pulpo, but expect crowds. Bar as Amizades on Juan XXIII has a 9-euro menú. Pizzería Agocho, near the Hotel Mogay and Hostal Yoel, is also recommended. Café Amedeo and Panadería Ascención (near Hotel Mogay) are good for breakfast.
Hotel Gamallo (García Arias 7, tel. 982 440 833) is one option. There's a laundromat in the same building as Pensión Yoel — 3 euros with card, 3.50 euros cash.
The modern church in the center is pilgrim-friendly and offers a sello. The Casa de Cultura next door also has a sello and free wifi.
Leave Chantada from Praza Santa Ana along Alférez Baanante, heading toward Centulle. You're on the in-town portion of the LU-1809. Just past the first peto de ánimas (a medieval crossroads shrine with carved images of souls in purgatory — the slot was for monetary offerings on their behalf), a mojón takes you off the road.
Continue through Centulle. You'll return to the LU-1809, then follow arrows right. About a hundred meters down, go left onto the service road of the main Chantada-Lalín highway. Stay on the service road for a few kilometers. After passing under a road bridge, turn left. Go through Boán, then straight through Lucenza. Before the end of Lucenza, take the path right. At the stop sign, cross the road and follow the mojón left. Cross the next road and continue straight to Penasillás.