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Wise Pilgrim APPPorto is half the size of Lisbon and twice as rewarding. It sits perched on steep hillsides above the north bank of the Rio Douro, and its historic center could absorb two full days of exploring without repeating a single street. If you've planned a rest day, this is the place for it.
The essential sights are concentrated enough to fill a solid afternoon. The Igreja dos Clerigos and its adjoining tower cost 5 euros, but the 360-degree view from the top justifies every cent and every one of the 200 steps to reach it. Leave your pack behind -- the spiral staircase is a tight squeeze. The Igreja do Carmo is unassuming from the outside but spectacular within, and the 15,000-tile azulejo panel covering its lateral wall is one of the largest in Portugal. The Se do Porto, the city's cathedral, is one of Porto's oldest surviving structures and sits at the highest point of the old town, commanding wide views over the rooftops.
If you entered town along the upper bridge crossing you'll have missed the Cais da Ribeira, the riverside boardwalk that runs below the Se. The restaurants there are overpriced but the atmosphere -- particularly at sunset when the Port wine lodges across the river catch the light -- makes up for it.
The Estacao de Sao Bento, even if you're not catching a train, is worth a detour for its entrance hall. Some 20,000 azulejo tiles painted by Jorge Colaco depict scenes from Portuguese history, from the Battle of Valdevez to the arrival of King Joao I in Porto. The Livraria Lello, a short walk uphill, draws long queues for its neo-Gothic interior and helical staircase, though the entry fee is redeemable against a book purchase.
Porto's food scene deserves attention. A francesinha -- the city's signature sandwich of cured meats, fresh sausage, and melted cheese drenched in a beer-and-tomato sauce -- is a rite of passage. Wash it down with a glass of Port from one of the lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, directly across the river.
Before you set off be certain to pick up a pilgrim’s credencial if you have not already done so. It can be found at the Sé Cathedral. This accordion-fold booklet is your passport to the camino and will become your most cherished souvenir of the trip. It is a required document in most pilgrim-specific accommodation, earns you pilgrim prices in many museums, and will serve as proof of your journey when presented to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago if you are planning on getting your Compostela Certificate.As large towns go, Porto is no different when it comes to finding the camino. In fact, it is complicated somewhat by the fact that there are three different caminos between here and Santiago, be aware that you may see signs indicating the ‘Coastal Route’ or the ‘Braga Route,’ or the ‘Central Route’; amongst others.
The Portuguese call Porto the Cidade Invicta -- the Unvanquished City. The name stuck after Porto withstood an 18-month siege by King Miguel I in 1832-33. Miguel had little interest in honoring the liberal constitution drafted after a local uprising, but the city held firm. He eventually abdicated, the constitution was restored, and Porto's defiance became a symbol of Portugal's Enlightenment values.
The city's roots go far deeper. A Celtic-Roman settlement called Portus Cale gave its name first to the county and eventually to the entire nation. Porto was already an important trading port by the 14th century, and its shipyards supplied many of the caravels that launched Portugal's Age of Discovery. The story goes that the citizens donated so much of their meat to provision Henry the Navigator's fleet that they were left with nothing but tripe -- earning Porto the nickname Cidade dos Tripeiros, the Tripe City.
The Port wine trade, established by treaty with England in the 17th century, transformed the city. The wine lodges that line the south bank in Vila Nova de Gaia remain the industry's beating heart.
Between Porto and the border with Spain, the camino splits into three distinct routes. They are known as the Central Way, the Coastal & Litoral Ways, and the Braga Way. Additionally, there are several paths that connect each of these options, creating a network of trails that can sometimes seem confusing. The best plan is to pick one of the options and simply follow it to its natural end.Leaving a large city is often a challenging combination of searching for arrows, heavy traffic, and durable city pavements. As an alternative, it is possible to take the Porto Metro to the city limits or beyond.THE CENTRAL WAYThe Central Way is currently the most popular and well-developed option. As the name implies, the route continues due north from Porto up the center of Portugal. It crosses into Spain at Valença/Túi and continues from there through Redondela to Santiago. THE COASTAL and LITORAL WAYSThe Coastal Way is gaining in popularity as the infrastructure and signage improve. It is sometimes referred to as the Senda Litoral, although this name is technically reserved for the sections of the route that strictly follow the coast. As the primary motivation for choosing the route is the proximity to seaside views, the route set out in this book is a combination of these two routes and the blue line indicated on the map should be interpreted as such. It leaves Porto along the Litoral Route, rather than sharing the first day of walking with the Central Way before turning westward. Where options exist they are indicated on the inset maps. The route passes through Vigo and rejoins the Central Way in Redondela.THE BRAGA WAYSome would consider this the original way, as it passes through the city of Braga where many of the Church's earliest decisions regarding Santiago were made, and where the first Bishop ordained by Santiago (Saint Peter of Braga/Rates) officiated. It was once the capital of Galicia and remains an influential city and massive tourist attraction. These days the infrastructure along the route has not kept pace with the needs of pilgrims and it is seldom traveled. Tours to Braga can be arranged in Barcelos (on the Central Way) if you wish to visit the city. This route is not included in this guide.THE VARIANTE ESPIRITUALThe Variante Espiritual is a popular alternative route north of Pontevedra. It is a two day walk which ends in a 29km boat ride to the town of Pontecesures.
