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Wise Pilgrim APPSaint-Privat sits on a basalt promontory overlooking the Allier valley and marks a natural end to the first walking day from Le Puy. It's a proper village with a Romanesque church whose oldest sections date from the 12th century, and the ruins of a medieval castle on the cliff edge above the gorge. Walk to the viewpoint near the castle ruins. The view down into the Allier valley is spectacular and gives you a preview of what's coming.
Several gites and a couple of restaurants serve pilgrims, and you'll find a small grocery or depanneur. The village has a quiet, end-of-the-road feel despite its long history as a stopping point on the pilgrim route.
The castle ruins date from the 13th century. Saint-Privat controlled a strategic position above the Allier crossing and was fortified accordingly. The Romanesque church retains its original 12th-century elements, though it has been modified over the centuries.
From Saint-Privat, the character of the route changes dramatically. You leave the gentle plateau and enter the Gorges de l'Allier. The descent to Monistrol-d'Allier is steep, rocky, and about 350 m of elevation loss over roughly 6 km. It's the first real test of your knees.
The path drops to the hamlet of Rochegude, where there's a small chapel and the ruins of a tower, then descends more steeply through forest toward Pratclaux before plunging down to Monistrol-d'Allier in the gorge bottom. The trail is well-marked but uneven underfoot. Take your time, use your poles, and watch for loose rock.
