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Wise Pilgrim APPNasbinals is the gateway to the high Aubrac and the last town before the exposed plateau crossing to Aubrac village and beyond. It's a small but lively place, built in the dark basalt stone that characterizes the Aubrac, with a population of around 500 that swells considerably during walking season.
The Eglise Sainte-Marie is the star of the village: an 11th-century Romanesque church built of local basalt and granite, with an octagonal bell tower and beautifully carved capitals inside. It's one of the finest small Romanesque churches on the entire Via Podiensis and worth a long look.
The village has hotels, gites, restaurants, a bakery, a butcher, a grocery store, and a tourist office. This is Aubrac country, and the local cuisine reflects it: aligot (mashed potato whipped with fresh tome cheese until it stretches in long, elastic ribbons) is the signature dish and is served everywhere. The beef comes from the distinctive Aubrac cattle, and the local restaurants take pride in their terroir.
A bronze statue in the village garden commemorates Pierre Brioude, known as "Pierrounet," a local bonesetter who died in 1907 and whose reputation for healing broken limbs drew people from across the region.
Resupply here. The next services are in Aubrac village, a tiny settlement 17 km to the south, or Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac beyond that.
The crossing from Nasbinals to Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac via the village of Aubrac covers some of the most exposed terrain on the Via Podiensis. The plateau reaches over 1,300 m and is completely open to the elements. In good weather, it's magnificent. In fog, rain, or snow, it can be dangerous. Check the forecast before setting out, and if conditions are bad, wait. The Aubrac has claimed lives.
The transhumance, the annual movement of cattle to summer pastures, traditionally begins on May 25 (the feast of Saint Urban). The cattle are decorated with flowers and bells and paraded up to the high pastures in a celebration that draws crowds. It's one of the great living agricultural traditions of France.
The village has been a stopping point for pilgrims since the medieval period. The Eglise Sainte-Marie dates from the late 11th century and is a pure example of Auvergne Romanesque architecture, with its heavy basalt walls and the octagonal tower typical of the region.
Nasbinals sits at the northern edge of the Aubrac massif, a volcanic plateau formed 5 to 9 million years ago. The plateau's basalt overlies a much older granite basement, and this geology defines everything about the landscape: the dark stone buildings, the rich volcanic soil that supports the pastures, and the burons, the traditional stone shelters where shepherds spent the summer making cheese during the transhumance.
From Nasbinals you climb south onto the high Aubrac plateau. The path follows ancient drailles, the stone-walled transhumance paths, across a landscape that has barely changed in centuries. The Aubrac cattle graze on either side, and in spring and early summer the pastures are carpeted with wildflowers.
The route climbs to over 1,300 m before reaching the tiny village of Aubrac, where a medieval hospital once sheltered pilgrims making this same crossing. The terrain is gentle but utterly exposed. There are no trees, no shelter, and no services between Nasbinals and Aubrac village. Carry water and be prepared for rapid weather changes.
