The trail from Arbas to Puerto de Pajares has never been good, and in recent years has gotten worse. Nowadays it is best avoided, and the distance to the mountain pass (1.3km) covered by road. This also gives you the benefit of taking a pause at the bar at the pass.
The Puerto de Pajares is one of the few mountain passes which for centuries has offered passage over the mountains into Asturias from the meseta. It remained the primary corridor until the construction of the A-66 to the west. It remains a difficult road for drivers and snow is not too uncommon here in June. Although still popular with secondary traffic and locals, most of the business here has been shuttered. However the former alpine Parador National that looks over the valleys to the North has recently re-opened their bar.
The Road
The camino leaves the main road to follow a trail behind some farm houses at the far end of the alto; if you have gone as far as the old Parador you will have to backtrack a bit and avoid the temptation to follow the road. At the farm buildings turn right and begin a gentle ascent to the border between León and Asturias. Here you will have to pass through a gate and descend back to the National road you ought to have avoided (it really is quite dangerous). Here you have to cross over the road (CAUTION) to resume along a trail down to Pajares.
NOTE: Along the way to Pajares you will find a junction which requires you to decide between Pajares or San Miguel. The route through San Miguel will also arrive at Pajares but takes 5km longer to do so and is therefore only really recommended for cyclists or for pilgrims who intend to sleep in Bendueños (off camino).
NOTE: From San Miguel follow the signs to Santa Marina. The village is divided, and you want the upper half, so turn Left at the first fork in the road where a shell (on your right) indicates that you should keep on the road. DO NOT follow the granite marker which tells you to continue straight.
Later, after following the road to Santa Marina, the camino comes to a chapel and again it is necessary to pay close attention. Here the camino goes through a gate which appears to lead to a private garage. On the other end of the farm are two more wooden gates and beyond them another path which covers the remaining 2km to Llanos de Somerón.
Fountain, and a place to relax in front of the church. If you do so, don't be surprised if a local comes along to unlock the church for you to visit.
The Road
From here on to Puente de los Fierros stay on the road, but before entering the small town look for a path to your left marked Fresnedo. In fact, you do not actually need to enter the town of Puente de los Fierros. This route takes you through two hamlets and past one ermita (San Miguel), and a fountain.
At the very entrance to Puente de los Fierros, the camino splits into two different routes. The more common, less scenic, and completely along the roadway version is to the right and is signed La Frecha. Over the bridge, turn left and follow the N-630. Alternatively, you can return to the mountains by turning uphill to your left towards Fresnedo. This route takes you through two hamlets and past one ermita (San Miguel), and a fountain. Both routes rejoin in Campomanes. If you ask me, take the upper route via Fresnedo. The work you put into it will be worth avoiding the unforgiving asphalt.
Campomanes is the return to civilization that you may be looking for. Restaurants, bars, and private accommodation are to be found here. The town sits between the old national road and the fancy new autopista. Geographically speaking it lies at the north end of the convergence of two valleys.
The Road
The camino will continue straight through the town turns right to cross the N-630 and a bit later the river. Just past the river it doubles back on itself to the left to follow a road along the river and to the Iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena.
ALTERNATIVE: Some choose to keep straight through the town to pass the Palacio de Revillagigedo. From the point the camino crosses and turns right to follow the road to Vega del Rey. There are no services in Vega and the other route allows you to visit Santa Cristina de Lena.
In Vega del Rey keep a lookout for the black pedestrian bridge on your right. Across the highway, and up a short but rigorous climb, lies one of the most important little churches in Asturias... the Iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena.
Palacio is not on the camino, but it is the site of Santa Cristina de Lena, the church mentioned above. It is also included in the guide because there is a hotel there, however getting there and back adds 2 km to your journey.
Pola de Lena is a larger town than any other you have seen since León, spread lengthwise along the road. There is an albergue with basic services located near the train station, and plenty of bars and groceries to meet pilgrim needs. To leave town, keep on following the main road.
Upon entering Ujo keep to your left if you wish to stop for a coffee or breakfast. To your right is an exercise path that you can also take but which doesn't pass any of Ujo's services. The Church, the train station, and the breakfast bar are all in the square which is to your left when you follow the road. Both routes meet up at the end of town, and from here to Mieres, you will follow the exercise trail.
Another commercially oriented town, Mieres has all services. The albergue is located outside of town in La Peña.
The Road
Cross over the river and into town. If you are not interested in the town, and would rather breeze through it, continue straight after crossing the bridge, through the first major intersection. At the second one (with a large car park on your right) turn left.
You will pass an urban park and at the end of the park you have two options:
1. Carry on straight, turning left at the very end of the road and rejoining the camino.
2. Reconsider your intent to breeze through town, and turn right to visit the Iglesia de San Juan. If you choose this route, just turn left again when you get to the church. The road wraps around the city and meets option 1 very quickly.
El Portazgo is little more of an outpost than a village, in fact the neoclassic building on your left once you cross over the rio Nalón was originally the toll station where you would pay for the pleasure of doing so.
DO NOT stay on the road here, but look to the left for a pair of mojons which direct you up a steep path. It is about 600m uphill until you emerge on a road with a few houses, turn left and continue on the road past a multipurpose sports field. Not far beyond the sports field the camino leaves the road along a narrow path gently to your right.
If you are starting your camino in Oviedo be sure to leave enough time to visit the Cathedral, which is the origin of the camino itself. It is also the place to pick up your credential (pilgrim passport) which will cost you 2.5€ but will include a visit to the Camara Santa, the oldest part of the Cathedral which was originally built to secure relics.
The greater Oviedo area is home to more pre-Romanesque architecture than any other place in Asturias; including the Iglesia de San Julián de los Prados, Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. These last two are not in the city center, but instead require a small detour when leaving Oviedo on the way to Santiago.
On the other end of the spectrum is the ultra-modern Palacio de Congresos by Calatrava, and in between the oldest and the newest are dozens of churches and civic buildings of note. The Monasteries of San Vicente and San Pelayo are the most noteworthy.
The Road
Arriving along Camino San Salvador: Shells and arrows will bring you right into the old quarters of Oviedo, passing a plaza and the beautiful Ayuntamiento building. There is talk of a new certificate which you can claim upon completion of the route, but details of where to find it are not yet sorted out. For now, you are advised to ask in the Cathedral or in the Albergue de Peregrinos.
