The Camino Finisterre & Múxia

The camino to Finisterre and Muxía is often called the epilogue to the longer trails leading into Santiago. It is a fitting description for the 3-5 day journey; many pilgrims are moved to find an ending to the ending of their camino.

Finisterre as a destination for pilgrim actually predates the Christian world and the pagan temple of Ara Solis was the goal for many who followed the stars west. It persisted even after the camino to Santiago took root, with several ‘hospitals’ having been built along the way. 

These days the route is more of a choose your own adventure kind of affair; with both Finisterre and Muxía being popular destinations. Finisterre remains the more popular choice and it is true that walking out to the lighthouse does leave you feeling like you have walked to the end of the road. The town itself is a sleepy fishing village. Muxía, on the other hand, has legend on its side. It is there, near the seaside Santuario da Virxe da Barca, that the Virgin Mary arrived by boat to lend a hand in bringing Christianity to this part of the world. 

Both towns form part of Galicia’s infamous Costa da Morte. It may seem like an exaggeration to give such a beautiful place such a morbid name but the waters here have earned the distinction; most recently in 2002 when high seas caused the Prestige oil tanker to run aground.

In planning your itinerary you have the option to go first to Finisterre or Muxía, and then to walk the 29km between them. If you are crunched for time keep in mind that there are many more buses departing for Santiago from Finisterre than there are from Muxía. 

Traditionally the walk was divided into 3 long days, but there are now many more options to divide the 90km into 4 or 5 days.

The remains of an old watermill sit aside the Río Sarela on the outskirts of Santiago.

Heavy traffic here. 

When you arrive at the main road of Quintáns, the camino turns left and then immediately right again... watch out for the arrows.

There is a bar where the camino emerges into town. The albergue is about half way through town and a bit (400-500m) off the camino.

The Road: The camino crisscrosses the main road and follows safer side streets. Keep an eye out for yellow arrows near a small bus stop that takes you to the right. If you miss it and walk too far, stay on the road and keep an eye out for a yellow arrow that will take you left. If you miss that one, just stay on the road, and the camino will rejoin is very soon.

Bar and Pharmacy on your right.  Check out the vines above the bar patio, they are a combination of grapes and kiwi.

The Road:  The road from Ventosa to Aguapesada is straight and along the road. Beyond Aguapesada it follows a quiet road up and into the forest.  The climb here is fairly steep. The towns between here and Ponte Maceira are of little note.

There is a bar in O Reino, which technically is a bit off of the camino to your left. Useful if the bar in Trasmonte was closed or if you prefer taking the path less traveled.

The highlight of Ponte Maceira is the bridge over the río Tambre and the rio itself. In Summer it fills with locals and pilgrims alike, both taking advantage of the cold water to keep cool. If you would rather just dip your feet in there are ample places to do so.

The Road:  Cross over the bridge and follow the road out of town.  As is common in these parts, the camino will continue to parallel the main road, often crossing and then crossing back, it feels un-necessary but it keeps you away from the traffic.  Negreira is the next city of note, and has all of the services you could need.

Note:  If you intend to stay in the Logrosa albergue, watch out for signs before entering Negreira.  They will take you to the left.

The Xunta albergue is on the far end of town, be sure to pick up supplies if you are not keen on walking back.  All services are available in town.

There may or may not be a bar open in Zas, it is also a shop for basic necessities but does not do much to advertise.  It is on your left and there are stacks of empty bottles to give it away.

The Road: You enter Zas along the road, but leave it at the bar mentioned above.  The town is small and you will very quickly find that the camino follows a nice country trail all the way to O Rapote.

Small farming village with a picnic table and fountain at the entrance.

An albergue and town bar are up a flight of steps on your left as you get to the village.

The Road: Much of the camino between here and Vilaserío is along the road.  Only at the very end do you turn left into the forest. A short distance on and you will have arrived in Vilaserío.  Turn right to the bar, the albergues, and the camino.

Be sure to turn right if you got here along the camino through the woods.  If you missed that part and stayed on the road, turn left and head into town a very short distance to the bar.

The bar here is open every day and provides excellent service to pilgrims.  There is WiFi there and nice, clean, bathrooms.  Recommended.

The municipal albergue is outside of town on the main road.

There is a fountain in Cornado

The bar and albergue are one and the same.  To get there turn left at the 'rollo'.  Otherwise continue to the right past a small picnic area.

Just a few buildings along the roadside, but with a pair of bars.

The local pool is free for pilgrims. There is now signage to take you along this optional detour, and it rejoins the official camino in Ponte Olveira.

In 2018 a bar and an albergue opened their doors to pilgrims, allowing pilgrims to divide the route into four days of walking no more than 26km a day with a short last day..

In 2018 a bar and an albergue opened their doors to pilgrims.

The bar, restaurant, and albergue are all part of the same operation.  On your right after crossing the bridge.  It is worth mentioning that it is under new ownership since 2014.

Hundreds of Horreos and two bar/restaurants.  Of the two, As Pias is the recommended choice.

Note: If you are continuing to Finisterre then the bar here is the last place to stock up on food and water for some distance. There is a fountain between here and Cee but very little else.

Shortly after the roadside bar beyond Hospital, in the middle of a large roundabout, is a double mojón indicating the choice between Finsterre and Muxía.