Note: If you are continuing to Finisterre then the bar here is the last place to stock up on food and water for some distance. There is a fountain between here and Cee but very little else.
If you are continuing to Finisterre then the bar here is the last place to stock up on water or grab a sandwich. There is a fountain between here and Cee but very little else.
Shortly after the roadside bar beyond Hospital, in the middle of a large roundabout, is a double mojón indicating the choice between Finsterre and Muxía.
From the roundabout with the twin markers, take the paved road to the left and alongside the massive factory. The camino follows the road for 300m before leaving it to join a trail on your right.
IF you are headed to Finisterra from this point, all the way to the first building in Cee, the camino remains well isolated from the road and any form of development beyond the two chapels mentioned below.
Dumbría, as small as it is, is the only town along the way to Muxía that has a shop to pick up the staples. There are a few restaurants in town as well.
The camino between Dumbría and Trasufe requires you to cross the busy AC-552 road, nothing too major be it is in a bend where drivers can easily overlook a crossing pilgrim.
Two bars along the main road, and a third (with a small shop) after you leave the road towards A Grixa.
There is a donative based cafe here located adjacent to one of the longest horréos in the area. If that is not your speed, there is also a roadside bar a short way off the camino that is easy to find if you follow the signs.
The way to Vilar de Sobremonte and beyond is a fairly steep climb, but not far beyond the top you are rewarded with the first view of the sea.
The signage here is a bit misleading, stick to the smaller road downhill and avoid the road which goes uphill. Both bring you to Moraime but the smaller road is the safer of the two.
Site of the former Monasterio de Moraime, a Benedictine affair in the early 12th century. These days it is only a church dedicated to San Xulián. The albergue is in an extremely well restored building but lacks proper cooking facilities and there are no restaurants in the vicinity.
Ahead is the last real ascent, up to the Capela de San Roque, and from there it is a much needed descent through Chorente and then the beaches at the edge of Muxía.
While Finisterre can be seen as a popular hippy destination, Muxiá skips the show and gets straight to relaxing. Some say it is too relaxed and indeed you might be uncomfortable being able to sit for hours on the massive stones that surround the Santuario da Virxe da Barca at the far end of the cape. Give it a try though, it is one of the few places left where you can claim a bit of earth as your own for as long as you can keep your feet on it.
Near the Santuario are two more monuments, one natural and one man-made. The former is a stone known as the Pedra da Barca, it is one of several stones in Galicia that are referred to as oscillating because of their ability to rock with the wind. The latter is the carved sculpture of a fissure called A Ferida (the wound), a monolithic memorial installed to keep alive the memory of the devastating oil spill in 2002.
There are two small beaches in Muxía, both on the camino from Hospital and both fairly well protected from wind and waves.